Kugenda mu Rwanda

Muraho buri wese! (Hello everyone!) Yes, another month has passed, so another blog is due. This month, I'll be enlightening you all on transportation in Rwanda.

Rwanda, as you know, is a very small country (it would fit several times into my home state of Wyoming), but there is nothing small about the transportation difficulties and no trip is quick. First of all, as the name of my blog suggests, it really is the land of a thousand hills, so roads must wind around the biggest among them, adding tens of kilometers to each journey. Also, there are several paved roads in Rwanda, but the majority are dirt, some of which are deeply rutted. So, transportation is an adventure before you even begin.

In Rwanda, there are not many people who have cars. They are expensive (about 5 million FRW, or $8300) in a country where most yearly salaries don't approach even 1.5 million FRW. There are however many motorcycles (much cheaper at about 600 000 FRW, or $1000), bikes, and bus companies.

A bike is the cheapest mode of transportation available. You just hop on the back of someone's bike, and off you go. A trip of about 5 kilometers runs somewhere around 300 FRW, very reasonable. Of course, bikes have their limitations, namely the distance they can go and the time it takes to get to your destination.

For those willing to spend significantly more but who still want the freedom of making their own schedule, a motorcycle is a good choice. There are plenty of people willing to let you sit behind them on their “hog” for a fare of around 2000 FRW for a 25 kilometer trip. It's a very convenient and reliable way to get around. They are quick, efficient, and they can avoid the worst spots in the road. But, long rides can be fairly painful.

By far the most common way to get from point A to point B is in a bus. There are several companies in Rwanda, and they all charge the same price for the same trip so choosing one is simply a matter of personal preference or available space. Buses can be further divided into two categories: the big, professional buses; and the smaller vans called Twegerane (lit. “Let's squeeze together”). The big, professional buses run along the main paved roads between the larger cities and towns and are very nice. They may be full, but you always have your own seat, and trips are quick and comfortable. Of course, this comfort comes at a price. For those on a budget, the Twegerane are the interesting ones. There, the drivers squeeze as many people as possible onto a fifteen-passenger van (the most I've seen is 23) and proceed to barrel along on the dirt roads, inevitably hitting several bumps and causing some jostling around (although you're so tightly packed that not much movement can occur). I take one of these each time I go to Butare, and each time is an adventure. There isn't really a schedule for these vans -you just take one when it comes along – and the fares are cheap. I keep waiting for one to break down while I'm on it, but it hasn't happened yet (knock on wood). The disadvantage, of course, is that you spend an hour or more knowing what it would be like to be a canned sardine. But, it is always interesting.

So, there you go: transportation in Rwanda. I hope you enjoyed it. If you come to visit maybe we can hop on a Twegerane together. We'll be closer than ever before! Until next month, murabeho!